Yet another 1UZFE swap

Discussion in '1989-1995 Build-Up/Project Threads' started by Toyotaboost, Aug 30, 2017.

  1. yotarip

    yotarip Veteran

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    When it comes to exhaust flanges, I stopped using them in my builds. I use slip joints with stainless band clamps.


    They seal great, fit well in tight quarters, allow you to fine tune the fit of the exhaust with a twist and easily remove sections when needed. They can be reused over and over.
     
  2. Toyotaboost

    Toyotaboost Member

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    Dammit, now I have to push the deadline a further back, now that I'm worry about the engine swinging around the bay on stock 22re mounts. I'll just get solid 22re mounts. Hows the vibrations through the truck with the engine at idle?
    I'll definitely look into the band clamps for the exhaust
     
  3. yotarip

    yotarip Veteran

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    Vibrations are barely noticeable at idle. It's a very smooth running motor.
     
  4. 90DailyDriven

    90DailyDriven Veteran

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    Location:
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    90 standard cab 2wd short bed
    Solid 22r motor mounts wont work with the ebay mounts. The ebay mounts just arent what they used to be and make the engine sit higher on one side. Ive complained to the seller and he supposedly fixed it but still had same issue with another set a friend bought. Looks like you are having the same issue.
     
  5. Toyotaboost

    Toyotaboost Member

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    I pulled the engine out for the 50th time. I'll just have to wait for solid mounts to come in. Do you guys have any pictures of how the exhaust manifolds clear the control arms? I do want the engine to sit as low as possible, especially not having to cut into the tunnel.
    Literally what is stopping me is the exhaust manifolds fitting evenly between the control arms.
    I have don't have clearance issues with the A/C compressor near the steering box or the frame or the valve cover with the brake booster anymore.

    So should I notch the ebay mounts a little more to bring engine down some

    By the way, this is a pre-mount and header modification picture
    20170728_160341.jpg
     
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  6. Toyotaboost

    Toyotaboost Member

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    While the motor mounts are being sorted will addressing the wiring. Just need the wire diagram for body plugs from 22re harness
     
  7. 90DailyDriven

    90DailyDriven Veteran

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    Location:
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    Truck:
    90 standard cab 2wd short bed
    Plug on passenger side C1 and C2
    A1 and A4 are on the drivers side.
     

    Attached Files:

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  8. Toyotaboost

    Toyotaboost Member

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    Sweet!
    Thanks Daily.
     
  9. Toyotaboost

    Toyotaboost Member

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    Update went ahead ordered trail gear solid mounts a 22re.
    Received them and test fitted the engine. Conclusion I need cut and re-position original mounts on the chassis to about an inch and half lower and use tundra headers to make it fit ( so many shims on the control arms the headers will touch).
    20170923_185035.jpg
    Also, its necessary to do it this way so that transmission bell-housing will clear the tunnel under the cab.
     
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  10. yotarip

    yotarip Veteran

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    OEM tundra exhaust manifolds MIGHT work but the aftermarket headers will not fit. The sc400 manifolds should be working for you. It's worked for two of the mini swaps I've done.
    We had to lower the original chassis mounts when using the excessive mounts also.
     
  11. Toyotaboost

    Toyotaboost Member

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    Yea they would work if the truck didn't required so many shims on the control arms to compensate for camber. See pic above. Also the bellhousing hits the cab so the engine needs to drop some for everything to clear.
     
  12. Utility 77

    Utility 77 Enthusiast

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    1977 Reg Cab w a utility bed
    Great build thinking of doing one myself.......I used to sell Lexus cars, luv the SC400 ! But the SC300 you could Get a 5speed..and turbo it
     
  13. Toyotaboost

    Toyotaboost Member

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    Update well not really
    Project was on the back burner for some time. But back on it again after addressing my daily driver needs and wants.
    Long story, shorten. I tried to get a welder to come out to weld the mounts, reinforcement plate for the steering box, traction arms for the axle and custom radiator brackets. But welders want an arm and a leg for just the mounts. I so decided to matters into my own hands and purchased a welder myself. Its a multi-process lincoln electric LE31mp I can do tig, mig, flux and stick with this thing and probably best tool I ever bought.
    IMG_20180401_083715_886.jpg

    While getting back to the truck I been running into a lot issues mounting this engine. problem is clearance of course. Sorry for the bad photo, but I'm trying to get the engine as far back as possible for radiator and fan clearance. But also ran into another problem with the drag link hitting the oil pan, not sure how you guys get pass that. I think it's because I move the box over to clear the AC compressor, but I may have to move it forward like the 4x4 models when converted to a SAS.
    I noticed its best to lift the cab off the frame and do everything while at it, just have to make a rig that can allow me to lift the cab off without scratching the newish paint. Or I just cut the radiator support and mod it to bolt on and off so I can slide the engine and trans in place.


    Also having some sway bar clearance issues as well, maybe tilted the engine a bit will help.
    20180420_154234.jpg

    currently how the engine sits on a harbor freight scissor lift
    20180420_162213.jpg

    20180420_162456.jpg

    Currently the bellhousing in the tunnel.

    20180420_154224.jpg
    What do yall think, first time going at this fabrication thing. I'm suspension and engine person more than metal works.
     
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  14. Erwin Merida

    Erwin Merida Toyotaholic

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    Great thread, updates needed!
     
  15. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    That welder seems to be a good bang for the buck.
     

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