Use anti-seize or you risk busting them off when you attempt to disassemble later. When torqued properly with clean threads matched to clean bolts, even with anti-seize, you're going to get a good hold EDIT: just to add as it may not be clear, 'torqued properly' means following the anti-seize directions and reducing torque spec a little if it requires it. You may have to come back a week and/or a month later and check your spec after the engine has come up to temp several times
I think it depends on which exhaust bolts you're talking about, but I'm 90% certain the FSM does not specify to use threadlocker on any of the exhaust system's fasteners - otherwise servicing anything on it would be even more impossible than it already is. On my truck the only bolts in the entire exhaust system are the bolts fastening the exhaust manifold to the head, the bolts connecting the manifold to the downpipe and the bolts on the 02 sensors - everything else is welded. I'd imagine if you loctite the manifold bolts on there the heat would kill it in short time and you're relying on proper torque to hold it on. Either that or it ends up stripping things because it's too tight and can't heat cycle. For the header to downpipe, I understand those to be a split-locknut design and you don't need threadlocker.
Thank you all! This is my first real HG job and im just thinking ahead. Next year i was hoping to do a full engine rebuild and was wondering how i could make my life easier. Does anyone recommend an affordable exhaust header for a 2wd?
The stock one, lol. All the ones rated with decent feedback are going to set you back more than $400 just for the header and in reality they aren't going to result in much of a HP upgrade, so to me it's kind of a waste of $, but it's your truck. To me it depends on what your use is for the truck and where you want the power at. Stock design is a Tri-Y design AKA 4-2-1 header and there are very few aftermarket headers following this (Doug Thorley and Stan's Headers are the only two I know of), otherwise most the others are all 4-1 headers (LCE, Pacesetter, Hedman, etc.) The Tri-Y is said to have more backpressure similar to stock, yet let things breathe better -- good for all-around upgrade. The 4-1 style is more common for the aftermarket header, it's more free-flowing but with less backpressure at low RPMs, which is good for racing, highway and higher RPMs.
Thank you for the info! Ive personally never expected much for this little truck but i thought itd help its value a touch if it sounded better. Hey i had a question about my cylinders. I was cleaning my block and rotated the piston down and noticed that cylinder four had a ridge of carbon. I also noticed that a bit of discoloration extended down further on the walls but not to far. What do you guys think?
