I ended up using an R150 transmission and have just about everything in place for the conversion. The clutch pedal, however, does not seem to have enough movement to create adequate hydraulic pressure for moving the clutch slave. I'm having difficulty getting the clutch pedal to work. That is, there is not enough travel in the clutch master because the pedal bottoms out on the floor and it has very little travel before it gets there. The clutch pedal and bracket are out of a 1990 4-Runner. Can anyone tell me if there is a difference between the 92 manual transmission and the 4-Runner clutch pedals and brackets? I also realized the brake pedal is different between the manual and automatic, so essentially I need both the brake and clutch pedals. The master and slave cylinders are OEM Aisin for a 92 manual transmission truck. The hydraulic line is from a 4-runner V6 MT.

 

If anyone can take a picture of the bracket and clutch/brake pedals either in place or out of the truck, please post it.

 

Hey, I have a question I'm doing doing a auto to manual too. Will a G52B manual trans from a 87 fit in a 94 22RE?

 

Just about done. Having trouble with the clutch line. I pulled one from a 4Runner, but it leaked from the master and the slave connections. Frustrated, I'm thinking of just biting the bullet and going with the stainless braided lines. Anyone know of a better deal than this?
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...0&_nkw=1992+toyota+truck+clutch+line&_sacat=0

BTW, I did sort out the pedal situation. The best thing to do is get a complete bracket assembly out of a manual transmission truck (89-94). That includes the clutch and brake pedals, switches, springs, extra hardware. The brake pedal is different and goes to the right of the steering column instead of the left like the automatics. Before installation I welded the clutch bracket in the area where it commonly cracks. Those spot welds can weaken over time and frequent use.

 

i did a complete swap from an auto to manual. I just grabbed everything from the junkyard. The hardlines and the flex lines. Then got a brand new master and slave cylinder, then bled the system and it works great!

 

Congratulations Orlando. Please define "everything". What transmission did you use? How did you deal with the driveline spacing and mounting? Did you have to cut a hole in the transmission tunnel because you had a column shifter originally?
I listed the issues I had with my conversion. What brand of master and slave cylinders did you use? I ended up buying another one because the guy who was helping me managed to cross thread the connection to the line and lose some parts when he tried using a different push rod. He also routed the line straight down from the driver's side then up and around the transmission, which caused it to rub against the steering and suspension, thus rupturing. The braided stainless line routed same as original worked flawlessly. Once I got a new master installed, bleeding was a snap and I was out test driving the truck the same afternoon.
I need to get the reverse light working. There may be a problem with the switch.
I still would like to get the proper ECU. Where is it located by the way? Can't find the info in a Chilton's manual.

R150 was a rebuilt transmission. I used a spacer for the driveline difference - much cheaper than having it stretched.
Total cost so far came to about $800.

 

I transferred over the r150 from a 3.0 for mate behind my 3.4. As for the other parts i needed for the swap was hardlines to the clutch, soft line that runs down the firewall, manual drive shaft, clutch pedal, brand new master and slave cylinder from amazon.

Mounting everything was straightforward and i had to cut a hole for the short shifter. I had a manual ecu so i just swap those out when i was swapping out the motor and had a conversion wire kit, so that the clutch needed to be pressed in order for the truck to start.

My cost on the tranny was 350 and additional parts were about 150. So 500 in total. If you look at my build post i have pictures...

 

Can you list the years and models with an ECU that will work? I'm on a search for that now.

 

I have no idea since i swapped the 3.4 instead of the 3.0. I would think you could find the same year ecu then might have to repin the wires. You should be fine with a 4x4 ecu as well

 

On the ECU, looking through e-bay I see that the one specific to my 1992 is: 89661-3573
Apparently these others will work as well, but I'm not sure. Also it appears that one may be specific to California. I don't know if/how that would affect emissions for smog testing.
35740
35320
35380
34050 (California)

 

Ya i am not sure, prolly would have to call the dealer to figure that one out.

 

Just to close up this thread, the ECU was left as is. Apparently all I needed was the overdrive switch plugged back in because the ECU was looking for a signal. Only reason I'd need to swap one out is if I needed the clutch safety switch.