Sup everyone. Just scored a 1988 single cab for cheap. I'm not new to minis nor Toyota's. I went the other direction though. My last was an 84 single cab long bed. Bobbed bed, long travel, locked, geared, 35's, among other things....

Total newbie when it comes to lowering, and wheel/ tire combo with correct offset. So I need all your help on this. This little truck will be my daily driver with an 80-100 miles round trip commute. Also a work truck. So I need the proper balance of function and looks.

It will be beadlined and have a toolbox. New motor is being installed now. So for suspension I'm set on Belltech 3" rear drop springs and 2" front spindles all with nitro drop shocks. I like the look of Infiniti g35 17's. Thinking 205 50r 17 for tire...

Will this tire and wheel combo with the drop be decent? Or what will. I don't want to worry about rubbing. Also... I dont know the terms... i like the look of the wheel popped out from the tire.. but don't think it's practical for what I use it for.. I want the wheel flush or slightly back from the sidewalk for some protection. I parallel park next to curbs most days..

Thoughts? Not looking for opinions really... need tech info of what works and what doesn't.

Truck: bone stock $900

 

Welcome! Looks like a good score for $900! I am of no help to you on the fitment questions, but I am sure others will chime in.

 

Damn that truck looks really clean!

 

Dude was asking $2k. I text and offered 1k. He bit right away. Then he flaked when I was supposed to go pick it up.. got him down another $100! I had to rent a dolly and tow it home 40 miles. Rod knock, zero compression and won't start. But still 900 bucks! Title and registration, tow dolly, and truck I'm in almost $1300 now.

 

Yes, super clean. The only bad so far... motor, front valance needs replaced, drivers door has a dent, also a dent in drivers side bedside, and rollpan needs some attention.

Truck is a good start without too much work.

 

If the frame is as clean as that body, $900 is a great deal even with the bad motor. I paid $1000 for my 87 with a good but disassembled motor 9 years ago.
As far as tire/rim, you sound like you want the stretched tire look but you are concerned about curb damage. Stretched tires offer no protection from curb rash and if you often parallel park next to curbs I recommend you not run stretched tires. You WILL EVENTUALLY damage your wheels. No matter how careful you are parking, you will hit a curb one day. 225/40/17 would offer some protection.

 

Welcome aboard.
I run 240/40/18's with a 45 offset, but also have 4x4 fenders at the front, so wheels tuck.
I drove her static dropped for 4 years , 2'' dropped springs & 2'' angled blocks at the rear , with is the rear axle will hit so a notch is in order. Betech 2'' dropped spindles at the front an torsion bars cranked down.
Bagged soon after & been this way for a long time now.

With the wheel & drop I run at the front you must change the inner fenders so the tire does not hit, if it hits with any combination it can & will cause a tie rod end to pull apart!!!

 

Untouched rust free frame also. Thanks for the tire input. With that size and the drop I plan.. should have zero rubbing?

 

I bought this without test driving. Obviously couldnt without a running motor. Motor is now finished with an RV cam. Super happy!

But now realized the cat and muffler have holes in them. So... suspension will have to wait. Going to do a header, high flow cat, and complete exhaust from LCE.

I've seen so many opinions about headers on the 22re. I'm debating on doing a before and after dyno for some real life numbers. The only problem is the dyno won't reflect just the header. It will be entire new exhaust.