The tank has found its new home 4.5 inches forward and 3/4" up from the stock spot... had to cut the cab floor to match

 

Will you be able to still connect it to it's factory spot? Maybe with some longer hoses.

 

@Mikerocosms Yeah looks like just a couple extensions for the breather tube and the filler neck will get em to bolt right up in the stock spot the lines themselves will just have slightly longer soft lines coupling em to the hard line, wiring reaches great. Theres some evap type smog stuff that I have to put back in but I'll put em in new spots. Nissans have this funky proportioning valve that's height sensitive for load. It's mounted to a crossmember and the lever is connected to the pumpkin of the straight axle with a spring. It's a trip! I have to either add an adjustment screw and bracket where the spring was or delete altogether. My thinking is keep it so I have adjustment outside the factory in-master valve since I'm going from rear drum to disc.

 

Sits flat all the way around with 3/4" blocks under the frame and wheels to simulate being on the ground since I haven't cut the rockers yet... just about ready to start fitting 4RUNNER parts!!!

 

Relocated the uca mounts two inches foarward and added slotted mounting holes so the uca has full caster adjustment and the ability to change the geometry a little as needed I Pie cut, reangled and shortened the lca's. Slotted the bj mount holes on the uca's narrowing the track width about 2.5" up front, bags are in and functional in the front as well. Gonna change the bagmount angle again before I zap it in all permanent but it'll do till I get the back going up and down on its own air power...
started the axle back framerails this week too slightly longer and four inches lower down than the stock rails... so it'll have all new steel from about 18" behind the cab to tailgate now... reasoning soon to come!!! Rear lift will be achieved by bars behind the axle with the bag and shock on bar.. even with the narrowing, unless I left it static with tons of camber like some stance ride, I won't be able to run the wires just too much offset...

 

Got a bunch more done on the rig this week. Made a ladder bar center section going from the carrier bearing crossmember to the aft most crossmember. Added a bent upper crossmember and two bent connector tubes between the ladder and the new upper. Welds are finally starting to look nicer started boxing and fishplating the rear drop in the rails. Gratuitous booty shot and the new box of goodies that came yesterday. Every arm adjustable for the irs except the lca's (toe, track, uca's, toe brace) but included a matching adjustable radius arm for the front! I'll modify em to make the lca's up front crazy adjustable and keep my front wheels exactly where I want em front to back but with exact safe caster whatever height I align it at

 

Got some more done yesterday. Made bent bars to go up from rear ladder assy up to the main crossmember. made my lift bars out of Dodge Ram ifs subframe connector bars that I bent and added hiems joints to one end. The hiems are kinda hidden up under the new vertical bars. Where they ended up needing to live wasn't my first choice cuz I can't mount the bags directly to the bar but everywhere else and angle I tried, it maxed out the hiems on the the old strut mounts making the bar kick out or to the side right before full lift. Even straight back like traditional lift bars the lateral deflection was more than I could handle plus no room for the bag again cuz I dropped the rear rails haha... sooo it's forcing me to not go simple and do something cool... some sort of cantilever is in the works now also made the lift bar shackles, cut the hiems nuts down to just under .25" thick and ran one on each side of the shackle plate and cut the rest of the threads off. Made it nice to be able to realign as I found more spots that didn't work along the ladder ha. I'll run a bead and lock it in place then reshape the bulk off it once I'm truly positive the lift bars have a home for good... as soon as it goes up and down both front and rear on air I'm gonna get the engine drop done, get back on the sheet metal, start fitting the toyota parts then get that damn floor all welded up, shorten tie rods ugh.... Not enuf time in the day

 

Crazy looking! good work!

 

Soooo, that last lift bar set up was a bust no room for the bag to be where it needed to b on the bar without a bunch of goofy shit to keep it out of the way of the toe arm oh well now I'm forced to do what I wanted to in the first place... bellcrank cantelever system it is!!!!! A lot of what's in the pics are just mock up but this is waaaay more promising!!! I made bungs with bronze bushings thru the frame and used the factory torsion bar cut in half for the pins. utizing the splines on one end to the factory receivers from the front lcas. And a permanent down force arm welded to the exposed section of pin between the bungs. I cut the lca torsion receivers down 3" and drilled em for hardened sleeves for a small shackle to connect it to the bag bar. Almost there with this idea I'm gonna have to modify the new ucas to single sided instead of the loop though, in order for the downward force arm to connect to a vertical strut bar I made without being all wonky like the mock up in the top left of top pic. The higher dollar arm kits come like that anyway... not sure if I'm doing another little arm to be able to run the bags linear or just letting em bow on a pivot like the front. I've gone this far, if there's room, I might as well go linear right?!

 

And bellcrank cantelever to double arm linear set up it is....